Sjávarniður 5.5

Leið 1 á mynd.
UK: Severe, US: 5.5/.6, Íslensk: 5.4. ⭐⭐
140 m
(klifraði í 2 spönn með 70 m linar)

The name comes from the sound of breaking waves at the coast which can be heard from the cliff.
Follows an obvious left trending diagonal crack almost to the top of the cliff. Mostly very easy slab climbing, gear is found where it’s needed.
Spönn 1: Start below an obvious corner and overlap, climb to the corner and follow this (avoiding wet streaks) to an obvious dyke and crack on the left, use this to gain the slab (alternatively gain the slab earlier through an obvious step in the overlap – this is probably drier and easier though may have loose blocks). Follow the slab to the diagonal crack and follow this to belay on a jammed block (60-65 m).
Spönn 2: Continue along the diagonal crack leftwards to pass through the next overlap on black rock. Follow the crack for a few more metres then head straight up the slab above on the driest rock you can find, to pass through the next overlap on reasonable holds with good gear. Finish up the slab to belay on easy ground.

To walk off, scramble up to the grass and traverse climbers left (east) to an easy grassy gully at the far (climbers) left of the crag.

F.f. Robert Askew and Catherine Gallagher, July 2021.

Kate on easy ground in the upper section of pitch 1
Kate having just climbed through the overlap at the top of pitch 2.
Crag Hvaldalur
Type trad
First ascent
Markings

2 related routes

Thyme for Tea 5.8

Leið 2 á mynd.
UK: VS 4c/5a, US/Ís: 5.8. ⭐⭐⭐⭐
180 m.
Klifraði í 3 spönn 65 m, 60 m, 50 m. (easy scramble up around 10 m to finish)

Named after all of the wild thyme growing in the valley.
Climbs fairly directly up the tallest section of the crag through the easiest ground. Start at the lowest section of the cliff, about 10 m right of a small leaning block cave (it is also possible to start from this block at the same grade).
Spönn 1: (4c/5a (French 5a)) Climb direct up dry rock to the large overlap and climb to the obvious corner to the left (with less than 70 m lines might be best to belay near here). Climb the corner with good gear to gain the slab (crux). Follow the slab (unprotectable) to cracked rocks and blocks to build a belay.
Spönn 2: (4b/c (French 4c)) Climb up mossy rock to gain a slab and a rounded shoulder above, follow this on easy ground all the the way to an obvious right-facing, black corner through the next large overlap. Climb the corner (crux, well protected) to a nice ledge and good belay stance.
Spönn 3: (4b (French 4b)) Gain the slab directly above the belay, traverse diagonally rightwards though a small cracked overlap (might be some loose rock) and continue to gain an obvious corner. Climb this (crux) and continue up the slab above to finish.
Scramble up to the grass.

Descend as for 1, to the climbers left.

F.f Robert Askew and Catherine Gallagher, July 2021.

Sjávarniður 5.5

Leið 1 á mynd.
UK: Severe, US: 5.5/.6, Íslensk: 5.4. ⭐⭐
140 m
(klifraði í 2 spönn með 70 m linar)

The name comes from the sound of breaking waves at the coast which can be heard from the cliff.
Follows an obvious left trending diagonal crack almost to the top of the cliff. Mostly very easy slab climbing, gear is found where it’s needed.
Spönn 1: Start below an obvious corner and overlap, climb to the corner and follow this (avoiding wet streaks) to an obvious dyke and crack on the left, use this to gain the slab (alternatively gain the slab earlier through an obvious step in the overlap – this is probably drier and easier though may have loose blocks). Follow the slab to the diagonal crack and follow this to belay on a jammed block (60-65 m).
Spönn 2: Continue along the diagonal crack leftwards to pass through the next overlap on black rock. Follow the crack for a few more metres then head straight up the slab above on the driest rock you can find, to pass through the next overlap on reasonable holds with good gear. Finish up the slab to belay on easy ground.

To walk off, scramble up to the grass and traverse climbers left (east) to an easy grassy gully at the far (climbers) left of the crag.

F.f. Robert Askew and Catherine Gallagher, July 2021.

Kate on easy ground in the upper section of pitch 1
Kate having just climbed through the overlap at the top of pitch 2.

Leave a Reply

Skip to toolbar